Tag Archives: free pattern

BD Chessboard 6″ Square

This was written for the Twilight Crafts Black & Red Swap. It’s a basic pattern and there are a million and one variations on this theme. This is written to be 6″ with a simple sc edge. It’s super-duper easy and, I think, makes a fun black & red square!

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Color A – Black (worsted weight)
Color B – Red (worsted weight)
Size H Hook
Gauge – 4dc = 1″

Notes:

Throughout the pattern, you will be working across the strand of yarn that you are not using. This means you’ll only have ends to weave in at the beginning and end.

When changing colors, pull the new color through the top of the last dc. Do not cut the last color worked with (see above).

With Color A, ch 22

Row 1: dc in 4th ch from hook and in the next 3 st, change to Color B, working 1 dc in each of the next 4 st, change to Color A at the top of the fourth st, rep the pattern of 4 dc, change colors at the top of the fourth st, across, joining Color B at the top of the last dc, ch 3 turn.

Row 2: continuing to work Color B across Color A, dc in the next 3 st, change to Color B, continue pattern (4 dc, change color) across, joining Color A at the top of the last dc, ch 3 turn.

Row 3: continuing to work Color A across Color B dc in the next 3 st, change to Color A, continue pattern (4 dc, change color) across, joining Color B at the top of the last dc, ch 3 turn.

Row 4-9: Repeat 2-3, finish off

Finishing: join Color A in any st. Sc in each sc, and in the back loops of the first row, 3 sc in the sides of each dc and two in each corner, around. Finish off.

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Eye of the Vampire 6″ Square

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Maybe I just have a silly imagination, but I swear there’s a red vampire eye in this block. Do you see it? I think if I do another, I will make the last two rounds solid black and then it will definitely look like an eye!

This particular block was made for the Twilight Crafts Black & Red Swap, hence the vampiric name! I hope to have a few more new patterns to offer up as I go along during the swap.

You Need:

Size G hook
Small amounts of two colors of yarn (A & B), I Love This Yarn used in sample.

Makes a 6″ square

With Color A, Ch 8, join with sl st into ring.

Round 1: Ch 3, 15 dc into ring, joining Color B in top of first ch 3.

Round 2: Ch 4, (dc in next dc, ch1) 15x, joining with a sl st in 3rd ch of ch4. Finish off.

Round 3: Join Color A with a sl st in any sp, ch 3, 2 dc in same sp, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 1) in each ch sp around; join Color B with a sl st in top of ch-3.

Round 4: * ch 5, (sc in next sp, ch 3) 3x, sc in next sp; repeat from * 3x, sl st in 1st ch. Finish Off

Round 5: Join Color A with a sl st in any ch 5 corner. ch 3, 2 dc, ch 3, 3 dc in same spc. [3dc in ea of the next 3 sps (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc in corner)] 3x. Join Color B with a sl st to top of ch 3.

Round 6: ch 1, sc in same sp, and each st across, (1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc in corners) around. Join with a sl st to first sc. Finish off.

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Chained Compass Motif with variations

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9″, 12″ and three color variations of Chained Compass

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Printable Pattern

After stumbling across a cool chain technique in Donna Kooler’s Encyclopedia of Crochet, I knew I had to work it into a motif…somehow! This was my second try at a design using the chains and I love all three variations. I’m thinking a black and white and red afghan would be stunning.

9″ one color variation

You need:

worsted weight yarn
H hook (or size needed to obtain gauge)

Notes:
gauge – round 1 = 2″ square
Ch 3 = beg dc throughout
Keep ch 12 loops on the front as you work. These will stay loose until round 9.

12″ one color variation

ch 5, join with a sl st to form ring

Round 1: ch3, 3 dc, (ch2, 4 dc) three times, ch 2, join to top of ch 3 with a sl st

Round 2: ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next st, ch 12, sc in next 2 st, [(sc, ch 2, sc in corner), sc in next 2 st, ch 12, sc in next 2 st] 3 times, sc, ch2, sc in corner. Join to first sc with sl st.

Round 3: ch 3, dc in each sc across, [(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc in corner), dc in each sc across] around, join with a sl st at the top of beg dc. (40 dc and 4 ch 2 sps)

Round 4: ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next st, ch 12, sc in next 5 st, [(sc, ch 2, sc in corner), sc in next 5 st, ch 12, sc in next 5 st] 3 times, sc, ch2, sc in corner, sc in remaining st, Join to first sc with sl st.

Round 5: Rep Round 3 (64 dc and 4 ch 2 sps)

Round 6: ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next st, ch 12, sc in next 8 st, [(sc, ch 2, sc in corner), sc in next 8 st, ch 12, sc in next 8 st] 3 times, sc, ch2, sc in corner, sc in corner, sc in remaining st, . Join to first sc with sl st.

Round 7: Rep Round 3 (88 dc and 4 ch 2 sps)

Round 8: ch 3, dc in each st, (2dc, ch 2, 2 dc in corners) around. (104 dc and 4 ch 2 sps)

You will have three loops on each side of the block. Join sections of loops by pulling the middle loop through the first loop, then the top loop through the middle loop.

first loop through the middle loop

middle loop through the top loop

Round 9: ch 1, sc in same st and in next st, sl st in ch 12 loop, sc in next 13 st to corner [(sc, ch 2, sc in corner), sc in next 13 st, sl st in ch 12 loop, sc in next 13 st to corner] three times. sc in remaining sts, join with sl st in first sc.

For 9″ block, finish off here.

Continue for 12″ block:

12″ one color variation

Round 10: ch 1, sc in same st and each st across, skipping sl st on previous round (sc, ch 2, sc in corners) around

Round 11 & 12, ch 1, hdc in same st and each st across, (hdc, ch 1, hdc in corners) around

Round 13: ch 1, sc in same st and each st across (sc, ch 2, sc in corners) around

Finish Off.

three color variation (which I’m secretly calling Bella’s Compass because I ❤ Twilight!)

For three color variation:
Color 1 – odd number rows to row 7, row 8, 9 & 13
Color 2 – even number rows to row 6
Color 3 – rows 10-12

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Veritable V-Stitch 12″ Block

Strawberry Ice Cream Baby Blanket

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Mmm, luscious pink strawberry ice cream. Soft pink with bits of brighter yumminess. That’s what I had in mind when working up this baby blanket pattern.

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Printable Pattern

This pattern is also available on Knit Picks!

You’ll need:

6 ounces Caron Simply Soft Watermelon (Color A)
8 ounces Caron Simply Soft Soft Pink (Color B)
8 ounces Caron Simply Soft Raspberry (Color C)
H hook

Finishes approximately 36″

Note: Ch 3 counts as first dc throughout

hole-free center made using magic loop technique

Instructions:

Row 1: With Color A, use the magic loop* (also called magic ring) technique. [3 dc, 2 ch] four times on loop, join at the top of first dc with a sl st. Pull loop tight.

*you can also start this like a traditional granny square: ch 3 , 2dc, [ch 2, 3 dc], rep [ to ] 2 times, ch 2, join to the top of ch 3 with a sl st.

Row 2: Ch 3, turn, dc in each dc across, [2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc in corner], continue to dc across, repeating [ ] for corners, join with a sl st in the top of ch 3.

Row 3: Repeat row 2, join Color B at sl st.

Rows 4-6: Repeat Row 2, join Color C at sl st, end of row 6.

Rows 7-9: Repeat Row 2, join Color A at sl st, end of row 9.

Row 10 – 31: Repeat pattern (1 row of Color A, 3 rows of Color B, 3 colors of C) through row 31 (the last row will be Color A). At the end of row 31, join Color B in sl st. ch 1.

Note: Do not turn ch 32 or 33

Row 32: ch 1, sc in back loop of each dc. 3 sc in corner ch. Repeat around, joining Color C in sl st.

Row 33: ch 1, sc in back loop of each sc, in corner [sc, 2 sc, sc]. Continue sc in back loop around, repeating [ ] in corners, join with a sl st and finish off.

back loop sc edging

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Make A Mini Valentine

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One of the best things about paper pieced patterns is that they are so easy to scale.

The great majority of the patterns I design finish 5″, which makes the math a bit easier. Want a 10″ block? Print at 200%. Want a 1.5″ block? Print at 30%.

Miniatures have long been a favorite of mine. They work up quickly and are just so darn adorable when you’re done!

Use Scrappy Heart in miniature and some card stock and you’ve got yourself a cute, fast handmade Valentine for your sweetie!

When choosing a paper pieced pattern to miniaturize, the simpler the pattern the better. Choose a pattern that is all one piece or only a few individual pieces. The more paper pieces you have to work with, the trickier your pattern will get and the thicker the seams will be.

For the Valentine’s Card you’ll need:

Scrappy Heart (pattern updated Feb. 2012) or other heart pattern, printed at 30% OR use my 1.5″ heart sets with 12 patterns per page
scrap fabrics in reds, pinks and whites
pink or red thread
a piece of card stock, whatever size pleases you, but big enough to fold in half OR pre-folded blank cards
a sewing machine
scissors
rotary cutter & ruler
wall paper or seam roller (optional)
dry iron

What to do:

Print your scaled pattern (shown here with the original 5″)

OR use the 1.5″ pattern sets created just for this tutorial (added Feb. 2012)

Piece the block like you would any other

Paper Piecing: Step By Step

When piecing in miniature, the smaller your seam allowance, the better. I like a scant 1/8″

This is your block finished from the back and the front.

Follow the stitching line around the block. This will make it possible to remove the paper without stretching the bias edges. Contrasting thread shown.

Remove the paper from the block.

**note – normally, the paper needs to stay on the block until it is pieced in it’s final destination, but because we are appliqueing it, that’s not an option here**

card stock and wall paper or seam roller

Fold the card stock in half, and press the crease with the wall paper roller. The same effect can be achieved with a scoring tool.

Position the block on the front of the card. Use a zig zag or other decorative stitch to applique in place.

Now fill the inside with sweet nothings and you’re ready to give it to your Valentine!

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Oh Wavy Baby!

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This is yet another baby blanket I designed specifically with charity blankets in mind. A local charity receives the great majority of my crochet efforts and because crochet is so portable, I get a lot done. I crochet in the carpool line, when I watch telly or when I have to wait for an appointment. If my hands are busy, I tend to be happy!

Use up your scraps, go solid, variegated or ombre. Each works brilliantly with a wavy ‘ghan!

For the scrappy version, you’ll need:

odds and ends of a worsted weight yarn (sample made in Red Heart)
K hook

Finished size is approximately 40″, depending on your gauge. This is a homey pattern and I don’t fuss about the gauge, as long as it’s crocheting up nicely.

Note: When changing colors, join new color with a sl just before you ch 3 for a new row.

ch 132

Row 1: 1 dc into third ch from hook and in the next three ch, *skip 2 ch, 1 dc into next 4 ch, ch 2, 1 dc in next 4 ch*. Repeat * to * until the last six ch. Skip 2 ch, 1 dc in next 3 ch, 2 dc in last ch. Ch 3, turn.

Row 2: 1 dc in first st, 1 dc in next 3 st, *sk 2 st, 1 dc in next 3 st, (1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc) into ch 2 sp. 1 dc in next 3 st*. Repeat * to * until the last six ch. Skip 2 ch, 1 dc in next 3 ch, 2 dc in top of last dc. Ch 3, turn.

Pattern: Repeat row 2 until blanket is approximately 40″ long. Finish off.

For a more delicate pattern, try a lighter-weight yarn with a smaller hook.

Happy crafting!

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Monique Baby Blanket

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Print this Pattern

Monique is one of my favorite blanket patterns to make for The Linus Connection.

It’s easy, relatively fast, works well with just about any yarn and can be adapted to be a smaller or larger size. Make it with all one color or use up your leftovers!

I’m not including yarn amounts here because it really varies on what size you’d like to make and what kind of yarn you choose. The one shown is made with Caron Simply Soft.

You’ll need:
The yarn of your choice, I prefer a soft worsted, like Caron Simply Soft. Please note that the amount will vary
depending on your brand choice
I hook – this is my preference, but it works with any size hook from G up to about a J, depending on yarn weight.

Ch 122 (or any multiple of 3 + 2)
Row 1: 1 hdc into third ch from hook, skip 1 st *(1sc, ch 1, 1 dc) in next st, sk 2 sts*, rep *to*, end of row, 1 sc in last st, ch 2,
turn.
Row 2: 1 hdc in first st, (1 sc, ch 1, 1dc) in ch sp of the previous row. 1 sc in ch 2 space, ch 2, turn.
Rep until blanket is approximately square or slightly rectangular.
For edging, continue pattern in ch sp around remaining 3 sides. Join with sl stitch and finish off.

Print this Pattern

edging detail

completed blanket

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Faux “Knit” Crochet Hogwarts Scarf

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In July of 2006, I enjoyed one of the best trips of my life to Las Vegas, Nevada. My friend Hope and I went to Lumos, the first Harry Potter conference I attended.

I was still fairly new to the online Harry Potter fandom, though I’d been part of the HP world since 1999. I was a new moderator for Harry Potter Crafts (2006-2008) and was not yet working for The Leaky Cauldron as a Crafty Witch (2006-2007).

Lumos changed everything. Suddenly, the names of people I knew online had faces, and voices and hugs!

Prior to the conference, I went into a crafting frenzy. I’m a Ravenclaw, and of course needed a house scarf! I wanted to my scarf to look knit…but I’m not a knitter. It’s my daughter’s craft, and I have left it alone because it makes her happy to be able to do a craft that mom doesn’t!

Anyhow, I wanted a knit-look scarf and had played with Tunisian crochet before. After working out the width of the bars, I went to work. This is the result. It’s a narrow scarf because I wore it in Las Vegas…in July. Can you say HOT?

Faux “Knit” Crochet Hogwarts Scarf

Scarf as modeled in 2006 by my dearly departed Prissy

Uses the Tunisian “knit” stitch: Tutorial on Stitch Diva and on Crochet Cabana (there are lots more, use the one that works for you)
Example made in Red Heart worsted weight – Soft Navy & Carrot (for Ravenclaw)
“I” afghan or other long crochet hook (gauge varies by size – work with what you like best)

narrow scarf =ch 15, “movie” size=ch 42

Row 1: ch 15 for a narrow scarf, or 42 for wider “movie” size. Insert the hook into the 2nd ch from hook, yo, and pull loop through the chain stitch (2 loops on hook). *Insert hook into next chain, yo, and pull loop through ch*, rep *to* to end of row, leaving all loops on the hook. The number of loops on the the hook should be the same as the beginning foundation chain. Do not turn.

Row 2: Working from left to right, yo and pull through first loop on hook, *yo, and pull through next 2 loops*, rep *to* to end of row (1 loop left on hook).

Row 3: *Insert hook between the 2 double vertical strands of each loop (from front to back), below the chain formed by row 2, yo and pull through a loop (loosely)*, rep *to* across row.

Row 4: Repeat row 2

Repeat row 3 & 4 for pattern. When changing color, attach at end of even row at “1 loop left” so that the remaining loop is the new color. You can easily count the rows you’ve made by the ridges on the back of your work – each ridge equals 2 rows.

*1- 28 in MC 29 (14 ridges)

32 in CC (2 ridges)

33 – 38 in MC (3 ridges)

39-42 in CC (2 ridges)

43- 66 in MC (14 ridges)

Repeat 13 times. You should have 14 sets of “captured” bars and each end should be 28 rows long. Fold the entire scarf in half and whip stitch. The seam can be in the back or on a side – your choice. Whip stitch the ends closed and add short fringe all the way across.

*some resources describe Tunisian crochet with each ridge, or every two rows as one row. If you want to count like that, then think 1-14, 15-16, etc. when counting.

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This is part of my “Way Back Craft” series; patterns, crafts, tutorials and general crafty memories before the days of this craft blog.

This pattern is also available on The Leaky Cauldron.