Way Back Craft: Harry Potter Bookcase Mural

It’s hard to believe I’ve never blogged about this project!

Years ago, I had a website called Jen’s Crochet and Crafts. It eventually morphed into sewhooked. The Harry Potter Bookcase Mural was originally posted there, along with the story of how it came to be.

When my almost-14-year-old-daughter was about to turn 8, she asked for a Harry Potter-themed room for her birthday. Being a big HP fan myself, I was as excited as she was to take on the project. Among her requests were castle walls, an enchanted ceiling, The Fat Lady on her door, red and gold hangings for her bed and a magical bookcase. I managed all of those things, but the bookcase remains my absolute favorite part of the project.

The original bookcase was drawn freehand with chalk. I’ve since made a map for use on an overhead projector, or, if you have a steady hand and feel up to it, to use as a free-hand guide.

Supplies:

Bookcase Mural Template printed on clear acetate
Overhead projector
Pencil or chalk
Masking tape
Dark semi-gloss paint for background
Paint roller and pan
Paint brushes, multiple sizes and shapes
Acrylic craft paints in multiple colors
List of books from the Harry Potter series
Permanent markers, various colors, fine & medium tips
optional: yardstick or long straight-edge
optional: egg cartons

You need a clean dry surface to start with. If painting on an older surface, you may want to paint with primer first.

Print the template on clear acetate and project the image onto the selected area. Position the bookcase where you’d like for it to appear. Use masking tape to outline the area that will become your bookcase.

Use semi-gloss paint and the paint roller to paint the taped-off area.

Paint a second coat if necessary. Allow to dry overnight.

Using a pencil or chalk, trace the bookcase (not the contents), adding a border if needed or desired. A ruler or yardstick comes in really handy for this step.

Paint bookcase shelves and allow to dry.

Starting with the top shelf, trace contents.

bottom left, close up

After tracing, paint contents using a variety of colors. An egg carton works great to have multiple colors available at once.

Repeat for all shelves, allow to dry overnight.

Using a variety of permanent markers, add book names using this list of books provided.

v
bottom right, close up

Randomly place books where you like, except for The Standard Book of Spells. Look for these on the second shelf from the top, on the right side. The seven books are more or less together, each with a line across the top of the binding (only 6 books are listed in the HP series, but I’m assuming there would have been a seventh if Harry had returned for his final year of school).

top left, close up

Add embellishments; names on potions bottles, cat whiskers, etc. with permanent markers.

Stand back and admire your work!

More photos from the Harry Potter bedroom with instructions on sewhooked

If you make this or any sewhooked crafts, I’d love to see a photo! Email me or add it to the Friends of sewhooked flickr group.

Happy Crafting!

Also posted on The Leaky Cauldron and cut out + keep

Sewing: Reduce, Reuse, Recycle a Thrift Store Sweater into a fun bag!

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The Recycled Sweater Bag isn’t quite old enough to be considered a Way Back Craft. I first started making this bag last year. It works great with a felted thrift store sweater, but you can also make this bag out of denim, upholstery fabric, or just about any other heavy duty material.

The bag size will vary based on the size of your sweater.

Do I need a reason to make a new bag? Not really, but recycling is a darn good incentive!

Use the written instructions below or watch the video. (Please note this video tutorial was posted in 2008, and the quality reflects that).

You will need:

1 old (or thrift store) 100% wool sweater – felted
fabric for lining & pockets
magnet purse snap
2 buttons
sewing machine
thread
scissors
chalk
pins
rotary cutter (optional)
walking foot (optional)

I used a 1/2″ seam allowance throughout. If your sweater is bulkier, go a little wider or use what works for you.

First up – let’s prep our fabrics!

Cut a square or rectangle out of the body of the sweater, cut the same dimensions from lining fabric, remove sweater arms.

Split sleeves up seam and cut off the tops for pockets.

Cut rectangles out of the sleeve tops, cut same dimensions +1.5″ in length for lining.

Using the remaining scraps, cut out 2 circles and trim the circles into free-form flowers.

Cut 2″ squares out of the bottom left and right, repeat for lining fabric.

Now, let’s make the lining!

Cut a square the same width and length from lining fabric for inside pockets. Fold in half and stitch along the fold.

Pin pocket to inside and mark center with chalk for stitching line.

Pin sides and bottom of lining, stitch, leave 2″ corners open, leave opening in the side or bottom for turning.

Match boxed corners (the notches in the bottom of the bag), pin & stitch.

Press seams then turn right side out. The bottom and pockets of your lining should now look like this.

Add magnetic snaps to your lining following the manufacturer’s directions. Leave enough seam allowance at the top for stitching around. I recommend 1″ or more of space. Add a folded piece of scrap fabric to the back to reinforce the snap. Stitch around the snap to reinforce extra fabric.

Time to work on the outside sweater pieces!

Pin sweater pocket piece to lining pocket piece, right sides together (lining should be 1.5″ longer), stitch ends.

Line up bottom of pocket, pin, then stitch sides. Leave an opening for turning.

Trim corners, turn pocket and pin openings.

Stitch side seams of bag, leaving bottom open.

Turn the sweater bag body right side out, matching seams. Pin pockets over the side seams, then stitch to attach.

With right sides together, stitch across sweater bag bottom.

Fold in boxed corners, matching side & bottom seams, pin & stitch.

The inside bottom should look like this.

Time for Sleeves!

Trim sleeves to desired width for strap, I like a wider strip so tend to cut about 5″. This includes seam allowance. Remember, this is your bag, and this width will vary based on your sweater, so the dimensions are all yours!

Pin ends of two sleeves together, stitch and trim seam.

Fold lengthwise, stitch, leaving approx. 6″ open for turning

Turn right side out and smooth opening.

Stitch closed with a tight whip stitch.

Center and pin straps to side seams, being sure to match right sides. Stitch in place.

Ensure the straps are inside and pin the lining to the sweater (outside of the bag), right sides together. Stitch around the top.

Turn the bag right side out through the opening in the lining.

Pin opening in lining. Stitch closed.

Turn lining inside, smooth and pin. Top stitch.

Stitch flower to center of each side over snap, stitch button on top. We are DONE!

What a fun way to recycle an old sweater!

Here’s a fun one I made with a cute purple sweater!

Happy Crafting!

Find my free patterns on Sewhooked & Fandom in Stitches.

♥ Jennifer O

Posts on this blog may contain affiliate links to help cover the cost of my website. I thank you for your generous support. ♥

Craft: Earring Hanger/Organizer

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I don’t make many New Year’s Resolutions, but I do start each year trying to be more organized. I’m starting with my personal spaces this year; my jewelry, make-up, and the like.

I love big, swishy earrings, handmade, hand-beaded, felted, you name it. I have loads that were made by friends and a few made by myself, and those are definitely my favorites.

Storage has gotten a bit precarious, and I’m usually trying to disentangle the mess and find a missing earring.

For quite a long time, I’ve used a small earring organizer to keep my studs and other small earrings that have a stem and a back. It was time for a new, bigger version so I could finally find all of my fabulous earrings!

You need:

a picture frame with no glass (recycled or raw wood)
plastic canvas
hot melt glue
scissors
ribbon
stapler (a staple gun works great if you have one) or thumb tacks
optional: paint & glitter

Cut the plastic canvas to fit inside your frame.

Optional: Paint the frame the color of your choice. If the frame is recycled and has a finish, you’ll need to give it a light sanding before painting.

I’m particularly fond of glitter…so I sprinkled some on my frame while it was still wet.

Once the paint and glitter are dry, place the plastic canvas inside the back of the frame. Go around all four sides with hot melt glue.

Cut a piece of ribbon long enough to reach from one corner of the frame to the other, plus a little for turning under on the ends. The length here depends on how you want your final product to look and how much of the ribbon you’d like to show. Turn the ends under and staple or tack in place.

Hang on the wall and add all of your lovely dangly earrings! Works best with French hook earrings.

Smaller, desk version

Find my free patterns on Sewhooked & Fandom in Stitches.

♥ Jennifer O

Posts on this blog may contain affiliate links to help cover the cost of my website. I thank you for your generous support. ♥

Faux “Knit” Crochet Hogwarts Scarf

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add to your ravelry queue

Printable Pattern

In July of 2006, I enjoyed one of the best trips of my life to Las Vegas, Nevada. My friend Hope and I went to Lumos, the first Harry Potter conference I attended.

I was still fairly new to the online Harry Potter fandom, though I’d been part of the HP world since 1999. I was a new moderator for Harry Potter Crafts (2006-2008) and was not yet working for The Leaky Cauldron as a Crafty Witch (2006-2007).

Lumos changed everything. Suddenly, the names of people I knew online had faces, and voices and hugs!

Prior to the conference, I went into a crafting frenzy. I’m a Ravenclaw, and of course needed a house scarf! I wanted to my scarf to look knit…but I’m not a knitter. It’s my daughter’s craft, and I have left it alone because it makes her happy to be able to do a craft that mom doesn’t!

Anyhow, I wanted a knit-look scarf and had played with Tunisian crochet before. After working out the width of the bars, I went to work. This is the result. It’s a narrow scarf because I wore it in Las Vegas…in July. Can you say HOT?

Faux “Knit” Crochet Hogwarts Scarf

Scarf as modeled in 2006 by my dearly departed Prissy

Uses the Tunisian “knit” stitch: Tutorial on Stitch Diva and on Crochet Cabana (there are lots more, use the one that works for you)
Example made in Red Heart worsted weight – Soft Navy & Carrot (for Ravenclaw)
“I” afghan or other long crochet hook (gauge varies by size – work with what you like best)

narrow scarf =ch 15, “movie” size=ch 42

Row 1: ch 15 for a narrow scarf, or 42 for wider “movie” size. Insert the hook into the 2nd ch from hook, yo, and pull loop through the chain stitch (2 loops on hook). *Insert hook into next chain, yo, and pull loop through ch*, rep *to* to end of row, leaving all loops on the hook. The number of loops on the the hook should be the same as the beginning foundation chain. Do not turn.

Row 2: Working from left to right, yo and pull through first loop on hook, *yo, and pull through next 2 loops*, rep *to* to end of row (1 loop left on hook).

Row 3: *Insert hook between the 2 double vertical strands of each loop (from front to back), below the chain formed by row 2, yo and pull through a loop (loosely)*, rep *to* across row.

Row 4: Repeat row 2

Repeat row 3 & 4 for pattern. When changing color, attach at end of even row at “1 loop left” so that the remaining loop is the new color. You can easily count the rows you’ve made by the ridges on the back of your work – each ridge equals 2 rows.

*1- 28 in MC 29 (14 ridges)

32 in CC (2 ridges)

33 – 38 in MC (3 ridges)

39-42 in CC (2 ridges)

43- 66 in MC (14 ridges)

Repeat 13 times. You should have 14 sets of “captured” bars and each end should be 28 rows long. Fold the entire scarf in half and whip stitch. The seam can be in the back or on a side – your choice. Whip stitch the ends closed and add short fringe all the way across.

*some resources describe Tunisian crochet with each ridge, or every two rows as one row. If you want to count like that, then think 1-14, 15-16, etc. when counting.

Add your Sewhooked-related photos to my flickr group and you might be featured in a future post!

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This is part of my “Way Back Craft” series; patterns, crafts, tutorials and general crafty memories before the days of this craft blog.

This pattern is also available on The Leaky Cauldron.

Ministry of Silly Walks Stencil

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Here’s a fun stencil that I made for my son. It’s a fairly simple stencil and a great conversation starter!

My family are huge Monty Python fans, so much so, that I ended up making a shirt for my hubby,too.

From the classic Python sketch, Ministry of Silly Walks:

Supplies:

A t-shirt (or other item to be stenciled)
Freezer Paper with Ministry of Silly Walks Stencil (updated version also for great for embroidery, 2014)
Foam Brush
Fabric Paint (I like Lumiere or Tulip Soft)
Exacto Cutting Tool
Cardboard or newspaper
Cutting Mat

In lieu of individual photos of the process, take a look at my how-to video for stenciling, which you may remember from this post or from The Cullen Crest post.

Pre-wash t-shirt without fabric softener.
Print stencil (or alternative updated version) onto freezer paper (matte side).
Carefully cut out with an exact-o knife. There are loads of fiddly bits, so take your time and be careful.
Set iron to medium.
Place cardboard or newspaper inside t-shirt.
Place stencil on t-shirt with a piece of blank paper on top (that keeps the tiny pieces in place) then carefully press with the iron.
Use the foam brush to gently paint on the fabric paint.
Allow a few minutes to dry, then carefully remove the stencil. For small pieces, use a straight pin to help get them started for easier removal.
Finish drying according to manufacturer’s directions.

Black on White Silly Walks

kirstencan’s Silly Walk tee from the flickr group

Add your Sewhooked-related photos to my flickr group and you might be featured in a future post!

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also posted on craftster and cut out + keep

The black Ministry of Silly Walks tee was one of the winners of the Knitted Icons contest on cut out + keep. (Knitted Icons was the prize…the craft didn’t have to be knitted)

A Little Flare

Recipe: Ranger Cookies

Candy Cups for Giving

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Shared by my aunt, Amy, several years ago, Candy Cups have become a gift-giving standard for me. I’ve made them for Christmas and birthdays and with all sorts of candy.

They’re easy, inexpensive, and make gorgeous gifts for the hard-to-shop for. Think teachers, friend,s and anyone who likes candy. Sugar-free candy works, too!

Once all your supplies are gathered, it’ll take you about an hour to make one candy cup.

You’ll need:

Glass or Mug (I prefer clear, but any kind will work, the heavier the better!)
Candy with loose or twisted wrappers (example used approximately 40 oz. of peppermints)
Styrofoam ball (size depends on your glass or mug)
Filler for the cup – recycled paper or candy
Bamboo Skewer
Scissors
Hot Melt Glue
Greening Pins (also available at the hobby store with the floral accessories)
Ribbon
Cellophane

Push the bamboo skewer into the Styrofoam ball, all the way through the top. Put it in the glass to and push down until the ball is snug in the glass.

Snip off the excess skewer with your scissors. You can also use large fingernail clippers, a utility knife, or pruning shears.

With the skewer still in the glass, fill the bottom with candy. Ideas are like M&Ms, Hershey’s Kisses, or Peppermints (though you could really use any candy). Another option is shredded paper, but the candy on the ball will make the cup top-heavy, so having a heavier filler keeps it from tipping over and gives the gifted a sweet bonus.

Place a small dot of hot melt glue on either side of the rim of the cup. Gently press the styrofoam ball onto glue, holding in place until it sets. You don’t need much, just a touch for stability.

candies in twisted wrappers

greening pins

Use greening pins to add candy to ball by poking pins through the loose end near the twist of the candy wrapper. Depending on the candy, you can get two or three on each pin.

Start at the bottom and work your way up to the top, moving in a circular pattern.

First Round complete.

Second Round.

Third Round.

Fill in any holes with more candy & greening pins.

Final round complete, all the holes filled in.

Wrap in cellophane and embellish with a bow or ribbon. The cellophane is optional, but it provides insurance that your candy will get from point “A” to point “B” intact.

Gift it!

Variation with M&Ms and Coca-Cola glasses

Variations by Amy Maxey – toffee coffee & bubble gum soda glass.

Find my free patterns on Sewhooked & Fandom in Stitches.

♥ Jennifer O

Posts on this blog may contain affiliate links to help cover the cost of my website. I thank you for your generous support. ♥

Smiling Santa Gift Bag

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I’ve been making these Santa bags for a lot of years now, but this is the first time I’ve ever shared a how-to for it.

Other similar bags I’ve made include Rudolph, Christmas kitties and Christmas trees. Change the basic bag to any color and add polka dots or stars for an easy birthday bag!

Smiling Santa is reusable, giftable, and darn cute. He’s fast to make with simple embroidered stitches and a button nose. If hand stitching isn’t your thing, fabric paint will work in a pinch!

You’ll need:

Smiling Santa reference
9″ x 12″ acrylic felt – 2 white, 1 red, 1 flesh
scissors
large needle
embroidery floss: white, red, blue & green
red button
ruler
optional: sewing machine
optional: rotary cutter

supplies

I use eco-friendly acrylic felt. It’s easy to find, cheap (20 cents a sheet) and sturdy.

Find the bottom of your bag and cut 1″ squares out of the opposite corners for each white sheet. This will create a faux gusset and allow your gift bag to stand up.

Cut the flesh-colored felt sheet down to 8″ x 5 1/2″. Fold in half and cut a gentle curve.

Open flesh-colored felt. Align 1″ from top of bag, centering so that each side has approximately 1/2″ of white felt showing.

Using the white embroidery floss, hand stitch a running stitch around the two sides and bottom of the face.

Add eye details with a straight stitch (eyebrows) and chain stitch (eyes).

Add button nose with red embroidery floss. Add mouth, also with red embroidery floss, using the chain stitch.

Pin two pieces of white felt together, face inside. Machine stitch 1/4″ seam on two sides and across the bottom.

Optional: hand stitch on the inside OR hand stitch on the outside using red embroidery floss.

Fold the open corners on the bottom together, matching outside seams. Fold seams in opposite directions to reduce bulk. Pin in place.

Machine stitch bag corners.

Turn bag right side out.

Fold 1″ down on top of bag, overlapping face. Pin, then straight stitch around. Stitch under side seam.

Finished stitching on the top of bag.

Cut two 12″ x 2″ strips from red felt.

Fold straps lengthwise. Straight stitch along the length with green embroidery floss.

Pin handle to outside of bag 2″ in from the sides.

Straight stitch snowflake or asterisk to hold handles in place. Repeat for the back of bag.

Stuff with goodies and gift it!

Feeling creative? Try your hand at a Christmas Tree!

Find my free patterns on Sewhooked & Fandom in Stitches.

♥ Jennifer O

Posts on this blog may contain affiliate links to help cover the cost of my website. I thank you for your generous support. ♥

Crochet Granny Handbag

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add this pattern to your ravelry queue

Printable Pattern

From the Way Back Vault today, I have one of my old fabvorites.

The Crochet Granny Handbag dates back to September 29, 2003.

I don’t remember who received the original, but I’ve made several as gifts since then. It’s a quick and easy pattern and makes a sturdy little bag, especially when it includes the optional lining.

You’ll need

Small amount of 2 Worsted colors (listed as A & B). Shown are Red Heart Country Blue (A) and Windsor Blue (B).
I Hook
for optional lining: fabric, needle, thread, zipper
scissors
tapestry/yarn needle

(Note – all stitches after the first round are in the back loops except on the corners, when you crochet over the chain.)

Front/Back (make 2)

Round 1 – With Color A, ch 4, join with sl st. Ch 3 2 dc, ch 2 in ring. (3 dc, ch 2) 3 times, sl st into starting ch 3. Do not turn.

Round 2 – Ch 3, dc in BACK LOOPS to corner ch 2 sp (2 dc, ch 2 2dc in corner sp, dc in back loops across), rep to beg ch 3, join with sl st. Break off Color A. Do not turn.

Round 3 – Join Color B in any ch 2 sp. Ch 3, dc, ch 2, 2 dc, (dc in back loops across, 2 dc, ch 2 2 dc in corner sp) around, join with sl st in beg ch 3.

Round 4 – Join Color A, rep pattern of round 3.

A close up of the strap side, using single crochet to join.

Strap

Ch 120, hdc in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in each chain to end, finish off. Starting in the center stitch on one front/back square, join strap by sc through the back loops only of the strap and the square. Sc in first 25 st to join strap, continue sc st in back loop of front/back square across top of bag. Sc in last 25 st of strap from the 2nd ch in the corner of the square back to where you joined. Join with sl st. Sl st ends of strap then around to back loop on opposite side of strap, crochet around same as for opposite side.

Lining (optional)

For a sturdier bag, line with a scrap of coordinating (shown) or contrasting fabric of the same size. Hand-stitch inside the bag below the sc round (round 4).

To add a zipper, sew it to the lining before you stitch the lining in the bag, then stitch whip-stitch on the lining seam to inside of round 4.

Other Options

For a longer strap, or bigger bag, simply add stitches or rounds to suit your needs, taking into account how many stitches you will need to get the strap all the way around the bag. For more depth, make the strap two or even three rows wide before attaching to the granny squares.

As always, if you make any pattern or craft from sewhooked, I’d love to see a photo. Email me or add it to the Friends of sewhooked flickr group.

Happy crafting

This is part of my “Way Back Craft” series; patterns, crafts, tutorials and general crafty memories before the days of this craft blog.