Deep in the wilds of my backyard lives the ferocious Quiltus Turtleus, called Turkle by his friends.
His markings are wholly unique and set him apart from all other Quiltus Turtleus.
A canny camera person can get quite close to Turkle, just watch out for the super massively strong jaws!
Quiltus Turtleus are known for their pointy and exceptionally cute tails.
When forced to show his belly, Turkle will display a fierce purple leopard print, frighting off predators for fear of a badly dressed…oops, this a “G” rated blog!
Ancestry of the Quiltus Turtleus, decended from the Quiltus Buttericktus Family.
I received an awesome goody bag from a friend recently that contained (among other things) tiny lint rollers. I tossed them in my sewing basket and went about my business.
That is, until I had some serious seam-rippage to take care of and got totally frustrated at the million and one wee bits of thread!
This short video is just a quick tip, a time saver for quickly conquering all that itty bitty post-rippage thread!
In case you haven’t heard, March is Mending Month. I do a lot of mending both on clothes and on items around the house, but nothing terribly exciting has popped up recently that seemed worth sharing.
Then I broke the little red tip off the head of my seam ripper and proceeded to stab myself in the thumb. Ouch! Now, a seam ripper is a super cheap tool and I have dulled my fair share of them. This particular one is fairly new and I hated to buy a new one when it’s still in fine stitch-picking shape. While casting my mind around for a solution to this problem, my eyes landed on my tray of ball head straight pins.
Now there’s a thought!
It took about 5 minutes, and that’s including the time it took for me to run and grab my camera!
ball head straight pin (You could also use a bead, though the centers of all the ones I tried were much too large.)
two pairs of jewelers pliers
glue (optional)
seam ripper with broken head
Using the jeweler’s pliers, remove the pin from the ball head.
ball head with pin removed
If the opening in the ball head is too small to fit, place the pin on the point of the seam ripper and gently turn to enlarge the existing hole.
Place the ball head on the broken part of the seam ripper head. Use the pliers to apply enough pressure to secure the head in place. Be very careful, the seam ripper point is sharp!
If the ball head you’re using doesn’t seem secure, use a tiny dot of Super, Tacky or hot melt glue.
So, you want a Harry Potter bedroom? The very first thing I think of when I think of Harry’s dormitory, is the four poster bed with house-colored hangings. Wouldn’t that be fabulous?
It definitely would be.
Unfortunately, not all of us have the means or the space for a four poster bed.
This is the problem I encountered when designing a Harry Potter room for my daughter. Her room has a ceiling fan and the room is just too small for a four poster bed. The Gryffindor canopy was on her Must Have list when the room decoration was being planned. I have the great fortune to have two very DIY parents and the first thing that popped in my head was mounting something lightweight on to the wall.
How about a faux canopy that gives the feeling of those hangings without the actual expense or space requirements of a real four poster?
Then I started thinking price. Cheap would be good. Very good. PVC. PERFECT!
A fun aside on this project – when I was buying the fabric, the woman at the cutting table at the fabric store asked if I was making a dress. When I told her I was making a Gryffindor canopy for a Harry Potter bedroom, she stared with her mouth open. It was the first of many stunned looks directed at my fandom crafting!
Supplies
3 lengths of 1 to 1 1/2” PVC pipe cut into 18” (45.7 cm) pieces (use a hacksaw or have it done at your DIY store)
Note: PVC under 1” is not recommended because it’s too flexible. Make sure the threaded plug & metal flange will work with the pipe you chose. They’re easy to test at the DIY store.
Gold spray paint (Use silver for Slytherin, bronze or silver for Ravenclaw and black for Hufflepuff)
Pencil
Measuring tape
Screwdriver
Drill (optional)
Screws with anchors
5 1/2 yards (5 meters) of red satiny fabric (Use green for Slytherin, blue for Ravenclaw or yellow for Huffelpuff)
matching thread
sewing machine (optional)
Instructions
Prewash fabric then hem on both ends, set aside.
Following manufacturer’s directions, use epoxy to glue the threaded plugs to one end of each of the PVC pipes. On opposite ends of pipes, use epoxy to attach the PVC caps. Epoxy the wooden rosette onto the cap. Allow epoxy to dry. Screw pipe into metal flange. Stand up on it’s end in a well covered, well ventilated area.
Paint with primer. Allow to dry according to manufacturer’s directions. Paint gold. Allow to dry overnight.
Find the center of your bed, mark a light line on the wall. Depending on the width of your bed and where you want the fabric to reach on the sides, you will need to attach the flanges lower or higher. If you have someone helping you, it’s a good idea to hold the center pipe in place with the fabric, centered, on the pipe. You can then determine how high the center pipe should be and where to place your two side pipes. They can be low or high, depending on your preference. Use measuring tape to assure the three pipes will be symmetrical.
Attach the metal flanges to the wall using screws and anchors, using the drill for pilot holes if necessary.
Screw pipes into each flange. Arrange canopy fabric.
You probably know by now, I’m a big thrift store shopper, especially for clothes.
I found a great pair of Gap jeans that fit perfectly, and only paid $1.25 for them! The only drawback was that they were too short, even for my average-length legs.
This was my easy-peasy solution. It works with or without the extra trim. I just love adding a little flavor to my thrifted goods!
You’ll need:
One pair of too-short jeans
seam ripper or razor (use razor with care, I don’t want anyone losing a finger!)
steam iron set to “cotton”
optional: trim, ribbon, etc.
sewing machine
thread
scissors
What to do:
Rip out the hem using a seam ripper, or, if you have a steady hand, a razor works great to get through the heavy duty stitching.
Press the legs out, removing any bits of thread left from ripping out the seam. You may need steam for this step to get the old hem lines nice and flat.
If the previous location of the bottom edge is a holey or ragged, you can add ribbon, leftover quilt binding, or any other washable trim by pinning around the outside. Tuck the ends under and then top stitch both edges.
For an unfinished edge, zig zag around the edge of each leg or use a decorative stitch. Once they’re washed, they’ll fray nice and even.
I’ve got several pairs of jeans like this, all of them found for super cheap and all of them with their own distinctive look. Love them!
The Recycled Sweater Bag isn’t quite old enough to be considered a Way Back Craft. I first started making this bag last year. It works great with a felted thrift store sweater, but you can also make this bag out of denim, upholstery fabric, or just about any other heavy duty material.
The bag size will vary based on the size of your sweater.
Do I need a reason to make a new bag? Not really, but recycling is a darn good incentive!
Use the written instructions below or watch the video. (Please note this video tutorial was posted in 2008, and the quality reflects that).
You will need:
1 old (or thrift store) 100% wool sweater – felted
fabric for lining & pockets
magnet purse snap
2 buttons
sewing machine
thread
scissors
chalk
pins
rotary cutter (optional)
walking foot (optional)
I used a 1/2″ seam allowance throughout. If your sweater is bulkier, go a little wider or use what works for you.
First up – let’s prep our fabrics!
Cut a square or rectangle out of the body of the sweater, cut the same dimensions from lining fabric, remove sweater arms.
Split sleeves up seam and cut off the tops for pockets.
Cut rectangles out of the sleeve tops, cut same dimensions +1.5″ in length for lining.
Using the remaining scraps, cut out 2 circles and trim the circles into free-form flowers.
Cut 2″ squares out of the bottom left and right, repeat for lining fabric.
Now, let’s make the lining!
Cut a square the same width and length from lining fabric for inside pockets. Fold in half and stitch along the fold.
Pin pocket to inside and mark center with chalk for stitching line.
Pin sides and bottom of lining, stitch, leave 2″ corners open, leave opening in the side or bottom for turning.
Match boxed corners (the notches in the bottom of the bag), pin & stitch.
Press seams then turn right side out. The bottom and pockets of your lining should now look like this.
Add magnetic snaps to your lining following the manufacturer’s directions. Leave enough seam allowance at the top for stitching around. I recommend 1″ or more of space. Add a folded piece of scrap fabric to the back to reinforce the snap. Stitch around the snap to reinforce extra fabric.
Time to work on the outside sweater pieces!
Pin sweater pocket piece to lining pocket piece, right sides together (lining should be 1.5″ longer), stitch ends.
Line up bottom of pocket, pin, then stitch sides. Leave an opening for turning.
Trim corners, turn pocket and pin openings.
Stitch side seams of bag, leaving bottom open.
Turn the sweater bag body right side out, matching seams. Pin pockets over the side seams, then stitch to attach.
With right sides together, stitch across sweater bag bottom.
Fold in boxed corners, matching side & bottom seams, pin & stitch.
The inside bottom should look like this.
Time for Sleeves!
Trim sleeves to desired width for strap, I like a wider strip so tend to cut about 5″. This includes seam allowance. Remember, this is your bag, and this width will vary based on your sweater, so the dimensions are all yours!
Pin ends of two sleeves together, stitch and trim seam.
Fold lengthwise, stitch, leaving approx. 6″ open for turning
Turn right side out and smooth opening.
Stitch closed with a tight whip stitch.
Center and pin straps to side seams, being sure to match right sides. Stitch in place.
Ensure the straps are inside and pin the lining to the sweater (outside of the bag), right sides together. Stitch around the top.
Turn the bag right side out through the opening in the lining.
Pin opening in lining. Stitch closed.
Turn lining inside, smooth and pin. Top stitch.
Stitch flower to center of each side over snap, stitch button on top. We are DONE!
What a fun way to recycle an old sweater!
Here’s a fun one I made with a cute purple sweater!
I’ve been making these Santa bags for a lot of years now, but this is the first time I’ve ever shared a how-to for it.
Other similar bags I’ve made include Rudolph, Christmas kitties and Christmas trees. Change the basic bag to any color and add polka dots or stars for an easy birthday bag!
Smiling Santa is reusable, giftable, and darn cute. He’s fast to make with simple embroidered stitches and a button nose. If hand stitching isn’t your thing, fabric paint will work in a pinch!
I use eco-friendly acrylic felt. It’s easy to find, cheap (20 cents a sheet) and sturdy.
Find the bottom of your bag and cut 1″ squares out of the opposite corners for each white sheet. This will create a faux gusset and allow your gift bag to stand up.
Cut the flesh-colored felt sheet down to 8″ x 5 1/2″. Fold in half and cut a gentle curve.
Open flesh-colored felt. Align 1″ from top of bag, centering so that each side has approximately 1/2″ of white felt showing.
Using the white embroidery floss, hand stitch a running stitch around the two sides and bottom of the face.
December is almost here and that means a couple of things for my family.
We eat too much, get to see family we haven’t seen for ages, and we craft. While crafting in itself is a daily thing for us, December crafting is different. We make ornaments for friends, family and ourselves. Just something about the cold weather, hot chocolate and waiting for Santa makes the crafting a little bit more special.
On that note, today’s craft is an old favorite of mine. It was originally designed to be an easy ornament to make during my kiddos’ elementary school days. I wanted something that was inexpensive, took few materials and would be easy to teach kids how to do.
This simple blanket stitched Christmas Stocking is all of these things. The knots might take a little adult assistance, but other than that, it’s a craft easy enough for anyone old enough to thread a needle!
Make it as is and you’ll have a 4″ stocking ornament. Enlarge for a larger stocking; personalize, decorate or embellish!
Cut pattern on the fold of red felt. Cut a strip of white felt 1 ” wide by long enough to go across both sides of stocking (4″ shown).
Align white felt across top of red so that the tops are flush.
Attach the white felt by stitching across the bottom with a blanket stitch. (How to blanket stitch from futuregirl.com)
Optional – personalize or decorate while the stocking is still open. I’ve left this one plain.
The back should look like this.
Fold stocking so white felt is outside. Pin in place.
Starting on the open side of stocking, stitch using a blanket stitch. You can hide the knot by starting under the white felt. Push the needle through the three layers of felt and then take another stitch through all four layers before beginning the blanket stitch.
Continue around all the way around.
This is what we have so far!
Continue blanket stitching around the top of the stocking, catching both the inside and outside layer in the stitch. Make sure to leave the stocking itself open.
Once you’ve made it all the way around, knot off the embroidery floss then make a loop about 1 1/2″ – 2″ long. Make a knot inside the stocking. Take a stitch and knot again.
The pattern is for a 3″ stocking, but it can easily be sized up or down depending on your needs.
I’m a big thrift store shopper. Sometimes, I find great articles of clothing that are the perfect size for one of my kids, but I know they won’t wear it because of a design or picture that’s on it. They’re both really into black at the moment and I found a great black hoodie sweatshirt the perfect size for my son. The price? $1.25. Could I pass that by? NO WAY.
The drawback? It came with an embroidered image of The Grinch. Cute, yes, his style, absolutely not!
After having the sweatshirt linger in my “to do something with” pile for a while, it occurred to me that I have all kinds of odds and ends leftover from other projects that might update the shirt and make it ready to wear.
One Levi’s pocket and about ten minutes of stitching later, and the update is complete and the hoody has gone from “Absolutely not!” to “Cool, Mom!”
It’s more of an update than reconstruction, but you get the idea!
To update a logo sweatshirt, you’ll need the sweatshirt and one jean’s pocket. Use a heavy-duty seam ripper to remove the pocket, or, if you feel comfortable doing so, a razor blade. Just be careful if you do!
A sewing machine is pretty much a must for this project, but if you want to try it by hand, you’ll need a heavy duty needle and a bit of patience to sew through all the layers!
Smooth out your sweatshirt.
Remove jeans pocket, being careful not to tear the fabric or cut yourself.
Pin the pocket in place. You can go for a straight angle like I did here, or turn it a bit left or right for a more interesting look.
From the front, stitch carefully around the pocket using the existing stitching lines. Reinforce at the corners and top of the seams.
It’s no secret among my friends that I’m a big Eddie Izzard fan. My family and I were lucky enough to get to see a live performance in June. Eddie was amazing, funny & brilliant, just as you might expect!
Also available as a video tutorial:
In honor of our shared Eddie-love, my good friend Shae stenciled this fantastic “Covered in Bees” t-shirt for me. She knew it would be too big and sent it with her crafty blessings to be reconstructed however I saw fit.
Resizing tees is the recon I do most often, making my shirts fit me better while still being long (and wide!) enough to go over my hips.
Use a favorite shirt that you already love the fit of and that has similar stretch to the fabric.
This is a fairly easy recon and usually takes about 30 minutes from start to finish.
Supplies:
Too Big t-shirt
smaller tee (guide)
pins
scissors
thread
sewing machine (optional)
ball point needle (for jersey fabrics)
The shirt, before resizing
Resizing using a favorite shirt – cut about 1/2″ away from the original shirt so you have seam allowance. You’ll have to do a little guestimating on the sleeves, but if you take it slow and careful, it’ll work out fine.
Use my favorite recon technique and eyeball for the sleeve size, adjusting the sleeve under the body of the t-shirt until it’s the length and shape you want. Pencil a line on the existing sleeve using the cut on the t-shirt, and then added about 1/2″ for seam allowance.
Find the center on the sleeves, pin to the seam allowance on the shirt. Pin along the sleeve, being careful not to pull or tug the fabric. Stitch using a stretch stitch and 1/2″ seam allowance.
(Note from 2025 Jennifer – while updating this tutorial I realized this photo was missing. It appears to be long gone from my files and I do apologize for the inconvenience.)
After stitching the sleeves, fold shirt in half, right sides together, matching the bottom hem. Stitch a 1/2″ seam under the sleeve and all the way down the side. Trim seam allowance, if you wish.
Because you leave the original hems for the sleeves and the shirt in place, the reconstruction is now complete!
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